· All modern washing machines incorporate a computerized timer that manages all the distinct circuits within the appliance, including the drainage and heating circuits.
· If you suspect a malfunction in one of your machine's circuits, testing all the components within that circuit is generally more straightforward than attempting to pinpoint the issue specifically to the control board.
· For instance, in the drainage circuit, you would inspect the drain pump and its wiring, whereas in the heating circuit, you would examine the heating element, thermostat, and wiring.
· If, after these checks, you still suspect the control board to be at fault, unfortunately, testing the board is often quite challenging, and replacing it entirely may be necessary.
You need a multimeter (digital or analogue)
Turn off the main power to disconnect your device
· Prioritize Safety! Always ensure your appliance is disconnected from the main power supply before initiating any repairs.
· Many contemporary machines are engineered to shut down automatically upon detecting a system fault, often accompanied by a fault code displayed on the front panel, comprising a combination of letters, lights, or numbers.
· Since fault codes differ among manufacturers, observing your machine's behavior can be equally useful in diagnosing the issue - whether it's in the drainage circuit or the heating circuit.
· Step 1 - Activating the Machine's Power
Upon powering on your machine, it initially locks the door and proceeds to conduct a self-diagnostic check.
If during this self-check, it identifies any system malfunction, it will halt operation and potentially display a fault code. Similarly, if the door fails to lock securely, it will recognize this as a fault and refrain from initiating the cycle.
· Step 2 - Acknowledge That It Contains Water
After successfully completing the self-check, the machine proceeds to fill with water via the solenoid valves located at the rear. The majority of washing machine cycle stages are timed to finish within a set duration.
If the machine fails to detect that it has been filled with water within a couple of minutes, it typically halts operation and displays a fault code to prevent potential flooding.
· Step 3 - Warming the Water and Initiating the Wash Cycle
Assuming the machine has filled with water as it should do, it will then move on to the next stage in the wash cycle. Once the water has filled to the correct level, the machine will then start to agitate it and heat it if required by that particular cycle.
When the temperature has been reached the machine will then wash for a certain amount of time before draining the water away. Again this has to happen within a predetermined time so if it doesn’t, the machine will shut down and display a fault code.
· Step 4 - Discharge the Water and Proceed with the Rinsing Stage
After draining the water, it performs a brief spin and subsequently initiates the rinse cycle. This rinse cycle resembles the wash cycle, where water is introduced to a specific level within a set timeframe, agitated, and then drained.
Most machines incorporate at least two rinses during the rinse cycle, and during the final rinse, both solenoid valves at the rear of the machine open to allow any conditioner from the detergent drawer to flow into the drum.
· Step 5 - Ultimate Spin Phase (Demanding a Properly Balanced Load)
After completing the rinse cycle, your machine prepares for the final spin by balancing the load, which it achieves by attempting to distribute the weight evenly around the drum.
In cases where the load includes a particularly heavy item, like a pair of jeans or a towel, amidst lighter items, the machine strives to balance that heavier item within the overall load.
Should it fail to balance the load properly, the machine will either refuse to spin or shut down and display an error code. Once balanced, the machine proceeds to spin and finishes the wash cycle.
· Step 6 - No indication of lights is shown.
If your machine is non-functional and lacks any light display or activity on the front panel, you'll need to assess its continuity.
First, disconnect it from the power outlet and inspect the fuse inside the plug to confirm it hasn't blown. If the fuse is intact, you'll proceed to check for continuity between the plug and the control board.
Trace the plug's path through the machine—it enters here, passes through the filter board, and then continues along these cables to the control board's plug. Use a multimeter set to resistance or continuity mode to test for continuity between the two points.
In the video example, you can observe continuity on both connections (indicating power reaches the circuit board). Likely, there's an internal fault—to verify, try replacing the board with a new one.
When the machine is plugged in, it causes a fuse to blow - Investigating for a Potential Short Circuit
A blown fuse indicates a short circuit somewhere within the machine, which could be located either on the control board or among the surrounding components.
To check for a short, simply unplug the machine and use a multimeter set to resistance to test across the plug—specifically between the live and earth wires, and the live and neutral wires.
If a short is present, it will register a resistance reading of less than a few ohms.
Checking the Heating Element for a Short Circuit
The heating element is frequently the first component to suffer from a short circuit, so try disconnecting it and re-testing for a short – if the short disappears, it confirms that the issue indeed lies within the element.
To further verify, you can test the element itself – for a functional element, the expected reading should fall somewhere between 20 and 50 ohms (therefore, any reading outside this range necessitates replacing the element).
To conduct the test on the element, start by disconnecting the lugs. Then, set your meter to a high resistance setting and measure from earth to one of the terminals – ideally, this should yield no reading.
Next, switch your meter to a low resistance setting and measure across the element. If the reading is approximately 27 to 28 ohms, it signifies that the element is in good condition.
Circuit Board - Inspecting for Short Circuits
If disconnecting the element doesn't resolve the short, the next step is to disconnect the circuit board and check for a short there.
If the short persists, continue down the line and inspect the filter board. If the short is still present, it's likely located in the plug or cable, and you'll need to replace them.
The Electricity Is Being Tripped by The Machine.
If your machine is causing the electricity to trip, the diagnostic process remains largely the same; however, a standard meter may not indicate any fault.
In such cases, an engineer would utilize an insulation tester, like a Megger, which generates 500 volts to pinpoint the location of the breakdown.
For washer-dryer appliances, the heater or heaters are often the culprit. However, if the tripping occurs during the final spin cycle, it's more likely that the motor is faulty, as it operates at its peak during this stage of the cycle.
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